Post-storm recuperation as a stepping-stone towards long-term integrated modelling in steep beaches

Integrated modelling approaches for the evolution of the entire dune-beach system have become increasingly sought-after, not only for management purposes, but also to allow better understanding of the feedbacks between processes and scales and a closer approximation of where critical system thresholds may lie. The effective reproduction of both destructive and constructive processes over a broad spectrum of temporal scales is crucial to any, such, integrated approach. Recent improvements of the XBeach-Duna model regarding approximation of nearshore processes were tested using in-situ data from the Emma storm impacts on a reflective beach (Praia de Faro, in S. Portugal). The model results compare well with measured post-storm and recovered profiles, showing high model skill under both erosive and constructive regimes. Building from this event-scale analysis, a gradual increase of temporal windows in simulated forcing conditions, through wave schematisation, is presented and discussed in terms of optimisation between gains in simulation time and losses in geomorphic change information. This methodological approach and findings are the basis that will allow passing on to dependable, long-term simulations of the beach-dune system evolution.

 

Acknowledgements: The work was implemented in the framework of the ENLACE project (ref. 28949 FEDER), funded by FCT (Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia)