Composite distribution of North Atlantic extreme wind waves inferred from satellite altimetry data

The north Atlantic Ocean is regularly traversed by extratropical cyclones and winter low pressure systems originated in the Western part of the basin that can potentially generate dangerous extreme sea states. The region where these extreme sea states occur is linked to the tracks of the low-pressure systems in the north Atlantic basin.

Extreme sea states are usually generated by storms that can traverse whole ocean basins and generate high-energy swells that can propagate for thousands of kilometers. Additionally, rogue waves are a recognized source of extreme waves that needs to be considered when designing for operation at sea.

This study aims at the spatial distribution of the mean and extreme wave significant wave height inside the extratropical cyclones. We studied the significant wave height distribution of extratropical cyclones using merged satellite altimetry data to produce composite maps of this sea state variable. Although there are large variations among individual cyclones, the compositing method allows obtaining general features. We find that the higher waves are in the south-eastern quadrant of the cyclone, due to the extended fetch mechanism. The highest wave heights are found during the 48h period when the cyclone’s strength is maximum.