Wave development and transformation under strong offshore winds: modelling by DNS and kinetic equations and comparison with airborne measurements

Transformation of spectral shape during wind wave development and the transition from the spectrum of developing waves to the spectrum of fully developed waves are well documented in measurements, but have so far escaped all modelling, as well as theoretical explanation. Numerical models of long-term wind wave evolution are based on the Hasselmann kinetic equation (KE). The KE predicts strict self-similarity beyond the initial several thousand characteristic periods of wave development, and therefore cannot describe the subsequent change of spectral shape. Instead, it predicts that the self-similar spectral shape, with a steep front and an enhanced peak, holds at arbitrary fetch, notwithstanding the experimental evidence that mature waves are characterised by the much wider Pierson-Moskowitz spectral shape.

To resolve the contradiction, we perform long-term modelling of wind wave evolution by direct numerical simulation (DNS), based on the Zakharov equation. We model a particular class of situations when the wave field at hand is generated by a strong quasi-stationary offshore wind jet, which is caused by pressure differences and accelerates passing through a valley into the sea. Examples of such phenomena are the Tehuano event off the Pacific coast of Mexico, and the Mistral in the northern Mediterranean. Modelling results are compared with the airborne observations of waves generated by these winds, collected during GOTEX and HYMEX experiments respectively. In parallel we also perform numerical simulations with the Hasselmann kinetic equation and the generalised kinetic equation. For modelling of waves off the Mexican coast, wind data are taken from measurements during the GOTEX experiment, and the initial conditions from the measured spectrum at the moment when wind waves prevail over swell after a short initial part of the evolution. Waves in the Mediterranean Sea are modelled with constant wind forcing and zero initial condition.

We show that the evolution of integral characteristics, e.g. significant wave height and wave steepness, is reproduced reasonably well by all modelling approaches. However, the spectral shape of developed waves demonstrates a large discrepancy between, on the one hand, the measured spectra and the DNS modelling and, on the other hand, spectra modelled by both kinetic equations. At the intermediate and advanced stage of development, both measured spectra and the DNS spectra tend to Pierson-Moskowitz spectral shape, while the modelling based on the kinetic equations invariably predicts spectra with a higher, more pronounced peak. In terms of the parameter of spectral peakedness, a commonly convenient measure of spectral shape, there is a large (of order one) discrepancy.

We propose a theoretical explanation of the discrepancy as being due to the neglect of non-gaussianity in the derivation of the kinetic equations, and provide a numerical confirmation of this hypothesis.