Experiments and simulations on extreme waves near reflective beaches
- 1School of Civil Engineering, The University of Sydney, Australia
- 2Marine Studies Institute, The University of Sydney, Australia
- 3School of Geosciences, The University of Sydney, Australia
- 4Department of Infrastructure Engineering, The University of Melbourne, Australia
Extreme waves events, also referred to as rogue waves, are known to appear in deep-water conditions as well as nearshore zones. The formation of large-amplitude waves in offshore areas has been well-documented and intensively studied in the last decades. On the other hand, wave processes near the coastlines are known to be dominated by wave reflections, which have a significant influence on the incident waves. This experimental study aims to improve understanding of rogue wave formation mechanisms and statistics when waves reflections are at play. To tackle this, several JONSWAP wave trains have been generated in a water wave flume wave while varying the artificial beach inclination to allow several wave reflection conditions. The data collected near the beach confirms an increased formation of extreme waves and attests the decrease of kurtosis with the increase of the beach inclination. Numerical simulations, based on weakly nonlinear wave evolution models, show a very good agreement with the laboratory experiments.
How to cite: Chabchoub, A., He, Y., Vila-Concejo, A., and Babanin, A.: Experiments and simulations on extreme waves near reflective beaches, EGU General Assembly 2021, online, 19–30 Apr 2021, EGU21-15493, https://doi.org/10.5194/egusphere-egu21-15493, 2021.
