Statistical Analysis of Extreme Wave Run-up on Steep Slopes

Some rock coasts around the world feature very steep coastal profiles which often continue past the waterline, and may quicly drop to one or two-hundred meters depth. We consider the interaction of ocean waves with such steep coastal topography. It has been shown that shoaling ocean waves may experience significant amplification in the last 50 to 100 meters before they run up on the shore, leading to potentially hazardous run-up events even under relatively calm conditions. We study the distribution of simulated run-up heights on steep and gentle slopes for a range of sea states, and compare the results to the distribution of offshore wave elevation.