EGU23-9740
https://doi.org/10.5194/egusphere-egu23-9740
EGU General Assembly 2023
© Author(s) 2023. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.

Deterministic directional wave forecasting in deep water

Eytan Meisner1, Dan Liberzon1, Mariano Galvagno2, David Andrade2, and Raphael Stuhlmeier2
Eytan Meisner et al.
  • 1T-SAIL, Civil and Environmental Engineering, The Technion—Israel Institute of Technology, Haifa, Israel
  • 2University of Plymouth, School of Engineering, Computing and Mathematics, UK

Recent years have seen an extensive increase in maritime activity, including new coastal and offshore infrastructure, increased cargo transport, and research on wave energy converters. While long-term macro-scale wave forecasting has been extensively researched (e.g. Günter & Hasselmann, 1991), with several forecasting models available today, there is a noticeable gap in local-scale deterministic wave forecasting models. Such models are needed to improve the efficiency of the design and operation of offshore installations and vessels, providing close-to-real-time data and short-term predictions of waves and wave-induced forcing.

We will report on the development of a new, computationally efficient model, allowing for weak nonlinearities in directional wavefields, based on previous studies on the unidirectional case (Stuhlmeier & Stiassnie, 2021). The model is capable of providing a deterministic forecast of the wavefield inside the prediction domain in time and space, based on measurements conducted over an initial region (Figure 1).

The mathematical framework used is the Zakharov equation, which determines the nonlinear cross-corrections to the frequencies between the various modes in the spectrum (Stuhlmeier & Stiassnie, 2019), used to derive the actual velocities at which the various wave field components are propagating.

The presentation will elaborate the full mathematical framework, alongside explanations of its benefits with respect to linear predictions. The model’s performance is validated using numerical data of nonlinear directional wavefields, generated using the higher order spectral (HOS) method.

Figure 1 – Predictable region in time (vertical axis) based on measurements at initial domain η0(x,y)

References

​​Günter, H. & Hasselmann, S., 1991. Wamodel cycle 4, Hamburg: German Climate Computing Centre.

Raphael Stuhlmeier and Michael Stiassnie. Deterministic wave forecasting with the Zakharov equation. J. Fluid Mech., 913:1–22, 2021.

Raphael Stuhlmeier and Michael Stiassnie. Nonlinear dispersion for ocean surface waves. J. Fluid Mech., 859:49–58, 2019.

How to cite: Meisner, E., Liberzon, D., Galvagno, M., Andrade, D., and Stuhlmeier, R.: Deterministic directional wave forecasting in deep water, EGU General Assembly 2023, Vienna, Austria, 24–28 Apr 2023, EGU23-9740, https://doi.org/10.5194/egusphere-egu23-9740, 2023.