On the influence of hydrodynamic and environmental conditions on wave breaking in the nearshore

An improved understanding of wave breaking is still a hot topic owing to its relevance in the coupling of ocean and atmosphere. Multiple communities are focusing on numerical simulations of the fully coupled two-phase flow, the validation of such models remains challenging. Herein, we demonstrate how coherent marine radars can help to shed light on how different wave and wind parameters influence the evolution of waves towards breaking in the nearshore. The interpretation of the results is undermined by SWASH simulations of shoaling waves for different wave spectra and two beaches and simulations of radvarimages of these waves. Data of three independent measurement campaigns shows that the shoaling characteristics are strongly influenced by the wave steepness, relative depth the Ursell number and the wind. The influence of individual parameters cannot be isolated, but must be understood in its entirety.